At aing week’s Kingpins Amsterdam—the denim barter appearance that runs Oct. 24–25—attendees will see the actualization of a new accord amid all-around t aggregation Lenzing of Austria and Los Angeles artist Pawan Kumar.
While a examination of key women’s pieces from the accumulating was captivated during Couture Appearance Week in New York during September, this is the aboriginal time the absolute 25-piece women’s and men’s Midnight Blues accumulating from the New Miuz artist will be seen.
Lenzing’s Tricia Carey, who is the administrator of all-around business development—denim, partnered with Kumar to architecture accouterment that would advertise the abeyant of the company’s Tencel Lyocell with Refibra technology.
“We capital to backpack through the adventure of sustainability from cilia to factory,” Carey explained as she discussed the Refibra fiber, which is fabricated from post-industrial affection waste. “Pawan did the designs, and we acclimated Saitex as a accomplishment accomplice because of their able acceptance about sustainability.”
Tapping into the artful talents of the arising artist from Los Angeles—who was aloft in Mauritius—and a amenable accomplishment accomplice based in Vietnam, Lenzing drew calm a all-around aggregation for its latest abridged collection. Beyond the collection’s denim, for which cilia is sourced from accessories in the United States, the United Kingdom or Austria, the ability of the activity broadcast into a beyond common action to actualize dresses, T-shirts, sweaters and jackets.
In accession to its amount denim pieces, Midnight Blues’ commutual wovens and knits were produced through a arrangement of mills that included Artful Denim Mills and Artful Milliners in Pakistan; Orta and Barutcu inTurkey; Blue Diamond and Prosperity in China; Candiani in Italy; Cone Denim inMexico; Hallotex, Tejidos Royo and Textil Santanderina inSpain; and Tintex in Portugal.
Long afore Midnight Blues was designed, Carey met Kumar during his time alive with Spanish accoutrement manufacturing–technology close Jeanologia. At the time, Carey had admired a assignment of art displayed on one of the company’s walls, which was created by the accouterment designer.
“Pawan has a actual absorbing background. He was built-in in Mauritius, accomplished in Spain and now works in the U.S.,” Carey said. “To accompany calm his affiliation and eyes from Mauritius to actualize Midnight Blues came off absolutely well.”
While he understands the abstruse aspects of contempo innovations in textiles, Kumar is additionally able to adapt his eyes into a accumulating that allows the characteristics of Lenzing’s actual to flash through.
Inspired by the affluent azure shades of Mauritius’s sky, he approved to drag the Refibra cast by creating strong, beautifully crafted pieces, which accommodate an absorbing spaghetti-strap, sweetheart-neckline azure clothes whose brim appearance eight layers of pleating.
“Instead of activity for a accidental look, I acclimated a clean, adult denim ablution in adjustment to enhance the adorableness of the Refibra denim,” he said. “I acclimated altered shades of azure but additionally added some animation to add added affluence to the Tencel fabric.”
Within the Midnight Blues collection, there abide three characteristic themes—“Floral Enigma,” “Textured Blue” and “Timeless Stripes.” While the hues that arise in the accumulating were aggressive by the colors of Mauritius, the artist admits that active in Los Angeles for about three years has afflicted the intricate assignment of his pieces.
“Being in L.A., which can be alleged a ‘denim city,’ accustomed me to apprentice added about the architecture artful of America and what bodies absolutely like here,” he revealed. “I accept a all-around eyes and architecture aesthetic, but actuality actuality helps me to alter further.”
It is the designer’s all-around architecture artful that has yielded a new attending in Refibra, abacus accession angle to Lenzing’s technology. Through this collaboration, Refibra has been aerial up to a new akin of appearance that expands the abeyant for this product, which was alien in February 2017.
“Some of the showcased pieces, like the dress with the pleating, were blame it to new areas,” Carey said. “We’ve done pleated before, but I don’t apperceive if we’ve done azure t in that way.”
In accession to the women’s pieces, Carey additionally sees abeyant for this accumulating to access the possibilities for the men’s Tencel denim market.
“Some of the men’s pieces appearance area the bazaar is now for menswear,” she said. “Men additionally appetite a blow of benevolence after the accouterment actuality drape-y.”
Building aloft the important assignment of accustomed designers is important at Lenzing as it looks against the future. For Carey, the accord with Kumar represents the artistic, abstruse assignment of the aing bearing of designers, but she continues to affix with the past.
“Our aftermost abridged that we did with Refibra was with Adriano Goldschmeid. I admired alive with him from a ancestry standpoint in denim,” she said. “Working with Pawan, he is bringing in a lot of new ideas, and back you see this aing bearing of designers advancing into bazaar it’s actual refreshing.”
As he prepares for the aboriginal Kingpins event, area he will appearance his own assignment rather than admiring the collections of added designers, Kumar is appreciative to admission beneath his affiliation with Lenzing.
“The alone way to survive is to move. We capital to appearance that we are affective forward,” he said. “I am accepting the befalling to appearance my designs beneath the Carved In Blue characterization with Tricia, so it’s a big footfall for me.”
The accumulating was developed as a abstraction capsule, but Kumar will accede appropriate orders for pieces from the line, which is priced from $350 to $3,000.
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